Let me mull it over for a night and come up with a tasty recipe for you. You brewing extract or all grain

Ok here's an adaptation of a recipe I did all grain. I haven't brewed this exact beer but there's nothing too crazy going on here. Added a couple specialty grains for steeping. You'll prob get a little of the rye flavor but not a ton. Lots of hops towards the end which will give you a really complex hop flavor. I've used this exact hop bill in a rye pale i did and it was delicious. The Rye and Honey matls should be run through a mill and then steeped in a cheese cloth bag, which is sounds like you're used to. Jeff will prob throw a recipe at you too if you wanna wait on his and compare.

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Rye Pale 2008 Extract
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General
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Category: American Ale
Subcategory: American Pale Ale
Recipe Type: Extract
Batch Size: 5 gal.
Volume Boiled: 4 gal.
Mash Efficiency: 72 %
Total Grain/Extract: 5.90 lbs.
Total Hops: 4.1 oz.
Calories (12 fl. oz.): 196.8
Cost to Brew: $29.25 (USD)
Cost per Bottle (12 fl. oz.): $0.55 (USD)

Ingredients
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0.2 lbs. Rye Malt
0.2 lbs. Honey Malt
3.5 lbs. Dry Extra Light Extract
2 lbs. Dry Amber Extract
0.9 oz. Amarillo (Pellets, 8.50 %AA) boiled 60 minutes.
1.2 oz. East Kent Goldings (Pellets, 5.00 %AA) boiled 15 minutes.
2 oz. Cascade (Pellets, 5.50 %AA) boiled 1 minutes.
Yeast: White Labs WLP001 California Ale

ital Statistics
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Original Gravity: 1.050
Terminal Gravity: 1.011
Color: 6.94 SRM
Bitterness: 40.0 IBU
Alcohol (%volume): 5.0 %

roller will do it too, if you've used specialty grains before just do the same thing you did before

Devon wrote:
roller will do it too, if you've used specialty grains before just do the same thing you did before

Yeah, in extract brewer a roller is fine, as the quality of the crack isn't that important. If you're going all-grain you'll want to use an actual mill (any good homebrew store should have one), as the milling is a very important part of the process. Mill it too much and you'll get a stuck sparge. Don't mill it enough and you won't convert starch to sugar.

But in this case, a roller is fine.

the recipe I gave you did you use a lot of hops compared to a kit. the thing is at 1min you are adding aroma and not much bitterness. you just dump em in like you did. they will all drop out during fermentation. You just want to be careful when you siphon for bottling. as long as you let it sit in fermentation and carefully rack for bottling you should still have a pretty clear beer.

Hmmm I guess I need more details. I brewed mine all grain vs extract so it won't taste exactly like mine but the hop bill should def add some nice citrus flavor at the end. What are your thoughts on the flavor overall? Mine was pretty widly liked by beer drinkers and non beer drinkers alike, though it's def quite hoppy. Shot you an e-mail btw.

That sucks man! I've had a few infected batches in my day, and it's no good. Were they extra carbonated or anything?

awwww sorry to hear that man, though that def explains why the flavor was off on the first couple you sampled. any idea what might have caused it? what are you using to sanitize?

as far as sanitizer goes switch to this.

Iodophor (from John Palmers how to brew)

Iodophor is a solution of iodine complexed with a polymer carrier that is very convenient to use. One tablespoon in 5 gallons of water (15ml in 19 l) is all that is needed to sanitize equipment with a two minute soak time. This produces a concentration of 12.5 ppm of titratable iodine. Soaking equipment longer, for 10 minutes, at the same concentration will disinfect surfaces to hospital standards. At 12.5 ppm the solution has a faint brown color that you can use to monitor the solution's viability. If the solution loses its color, it no longer contains enough free iodine to work. There is no advantage to using more than the specified amount of iodophor. In addition to wasting the product, you risk exposing yourself and your beer to excessive amounts of iodine.

Iodophor will stain plastic with long exposures, but that is only a cosmetic problem. The 12.5 ppm concentration does not need to be rinsed, but the item should be allowed to drain before use. Even though the recommended concentration is well below the taste threshold, I rinse everything with a little bit of cooled boiled water to avoid any chance of off-flavors, but that's me.

Your brew shop should have this in stock, since we switched to this I'd never go back, it's def nice to work with

Dutch wrote:
I dont think there was any more carbonation than any other brews I did. I think it was 5oz (i think the eqivalent is 1/2 cup to 3/4 cup).

I meant, did you notice any excess carbonation? One of the signs of an infection is excess carbonation, since most infectious organisms can eat the more complex sugars that beer yeast can't. So, as they ferment further and further through your beer, you'll see more and more excess carbonation. This is when bottle bombs can become a worry, as I found out once.