"Drink Local Beer!" Interview with Michael Smith, Brewer for Harpoon Brewing Company
Well, as we've said before, we here at DrinkCraftBeer.com like local beer. But you don't have to be small to be local. Having produced 105,000 barrels of craft beer per year, they're definitely one of the bigger breweries in Massachusetts. And, with their IPA, 100 Barrel Series and an array of other quality brews, they are definitely putting out some delicious and drinkable beers! We corresponded with Michael Smith, one of the brewers in their Boston facility, about how he got his start, what he likes about brewing, where he sees the industry going and more. Here's what he had to say:
DCB: How’d you get into brewing? Did you homebrew?
Michael Smith: My mother gave me a homebrew kit for my twenty-first birthday. It really opened my eyes to the fact that people actually make beer—it doesn’t just come from the package store. I read the Charlie Papazian book, then some Michael Jackson, and really became interested in all the different styles of beer and how they evolved. I am fascinated by the convergence of history, geography, economics, science and good beer.
DCB: What career steps led you to being a brewer at one of the largest craft breweries in the country? Where else in the brewing industry have you worked and how did it differ from Harpoon?
MS: I ran a homebrew shop in Austin, TX for a few years. Then I weaseled my way into an apprenticeship at a brewpub. It was called Waterloo Brewing Company, also in Austin. I worked there for a few years, but Waterloo ended up closing in the Summer of 2001. I’m from New England, and heard that Harpoon was hiring, and here I am. I got pretty lucky, this is a dream job.
The main difference between working at a brewpub and at Harpoon is the division of labor. At Waterloo I had to do just about everything: brewing, cellarwork, fixing stuff, serving beer… At Harpoon I almost exclusively run the brewhouse.
DCB: Who/what inspired you to be a brewer?
MS: The multifaceted nature of the work inspired me. I love how brewing involves history, cooking, machines, computers, microbiology and all sorts of other cool stuff.
DCB: What is your favorite beer that Harpoon makes right now, and why?
MS: I like them all. I never pick favorite beers because what I feel like drinking depends on the time of year, my mood, what I’m eating, who I’m drinking with. That’s one of the best things about beer: there are so many types that I don’t have to pick a favorite.
DCB: As the flagship, your IPA seems to be your biggest seller. What do you thinking attracts people to it?
MS: The IPA is indeed our best seller. I think people are attracted to it because it’s fairly aggressive, but also balanced. You really know you’re drinking a beer, it’s full flavored, but won’t really blow anyone away.
DCB: What is your opinion on big/extreme beer and the double/imperialization of every style? Do you think this “extreme beer” movement is just a fad? Where do you think it’s going?
MS: As I said before, the variety of different beers available these days is awesome. I personally prefer beers with a bit more balance that a lot of the current “extreme” offerings. It is somewhat of a fad, but so was Pilsner in the mid 1800’s. Styles start out as fads. There does seem to be a bit of a backlash going on, though. We’re seeing a lot more lower alcohol “session” beers being produced these days.
One thing that really does drive me crazy is when self proclaimed “beer experts” start acting like the beer-style police, particularly with these “extreme” styles. I think it’s preposterous for someone to critique a beer for being “out of style” when the “style” didn’t even exist five years ago.
DCB: I know the 100 Barrel Series has done some bigger beers, will this continue?
MS: Yes, but we certainly don’t limit ourselves to big beers.
DCB: Harpoon pretty much has a set line of beers but, recently, you have added the brown to your regular line-up. Also, you’re continuously bringing out new brews in the 100 Barrel Series. For instance, you came up with the Frankenfest. How do you go about deciding what will come out and how it should taste when you go about creating it? Do you have a style you want to adhere to, a flavor you want or something else?
MS: We decide what will come out based on what we want to drink. The sales, marketing and brewing departments all sit down and discuss what kind of beers we want to make. Then the brewers make test batches to fine tune a recipe. We know what we’re looking for, flavor-wise, and get there with a combination of test batches and experience.
DCB: Is there anything new/upcoming we should be looking out for?
MS: The next Hundred Barrel will be made by Ray Dobens, a cellarman here in Boston, and is a “wet hop” beer. It should be fantastic. It’ll be out around the beginning of September (we’re waiting for the hops to be harvested right now) and should be awesome. Also, look for a cider in the next few months. We’re all really looking forward to that.
DCB: Finally, is there anything you’d like to add?
MS: Drink local beer! Oh, and don’t take any wooden nickels…
